A Coruña sits on a thumb of land poking into the Atlantic, with a harbour on one side and open ocean beaches on the other, so the city has two moods depending on which side of the isthmus you stand. The Orzán and Riazor beaches face the wind and surf, while the old town and the glass-fronted houses of the Marina look in over calmer water. It is Galician to the core, which means the weather can change four times in an afternoon and nobody will remark on it.
The most famous thing here is the Tower of Hercules, a Roman lighthouse that has stood on its headland for nearly two thousand years and still works, which is more than most buildings can claim. It was heavily restored in the eighteenth century and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Legend says Hercules killed a giant on this spot and buried him under the tower, and the city's coat of arms used to carry a skull to prove it. Closer to the centre, the town grew rich on Atlantic trade, and the Inditex empire, Zara's parent company, began here in 1975, which explains the well-dressed locals. Seafood is serious business. Try pulpo, empanada and a cold glass of Albariño if you get the chance.
For a motorcyclist, A Coruña is a comfortable base and fuel stop for the Costa da Morte, the Coast of Death, which the ride follows west and north. It is a big city of nearly a quarter of a million, so fuel, bike shops and breakfast are all easy. The wise thing is to leave early and head out toward Carballo, Malpica and the long, jagged line of headlands beyond, where the road dips in and out of fishing villages with wind in your face and surf throwing white spray against black granite. It is an honest name: many ships went down on these rocks, and the lighthouses reflect it.
Pack a waterproof layer whatever the forecast says, since sea fog can blow in without much warning and the paint on the road markings gets slick. And if the sun does show, you will understand why locals keep coming back.